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Since removing the wiring loom and manifold, I was able to make a note of all PCV, crankcase breathers and water pipes that are around the back of the block/bell housing.
One major thing to remember, is to remove the small circular cover on the side of the gearbox, which allows you to screw in a 6mm bolt then pull out the clutch fork pin. If you don't do this, you CANT separate the engine and gearbox.
After double checking everything, I crawled under the car and removed the securing bolts on the engine mounts from underneath. This means that once the engine is lifted, they will slide out of their mounts. Also to be disconnected were the 4 lower bell housing bolts. These were a mixture of access from above and below. Fiddly, due to the drive shaft is in the way for the lower two. Queue bad language.
My friend Peter (if your reading this, you know how thankful I am!) was able to operate the crane from above while I checked all bolts were from underneath. I then got out from under the car and after a lot of shaking and wiggly, including hitting the engine and bell housing with a rubber mallet to liberate it, the engine came loose.
We then jacked it up free and the one thing I had forgotten to do was disconnect the oil cooler lines to the local cooler and oil filter housing. 30 mins of swearing and various spanners later the AN connections were loose and we could pull the engine free. We then used the bell housing bolts to secure the engine to the engine stand, and thats it!
One major thing to remember, is to remove the small circular cover on the side of the gearbox, which allows you to screw in a 6mm bolt then pull out the clutch fork pin. If you don't do this, you CANT separate the engine and gearbox.
After double checking everything, I crawled under the car and removed the securing bolts on the engine mounts from underneath. This means that once the engine is lifted, they will slide out of their mounts. Also to be disconnected were the 4 lower bell housing bolts. These were a mixture of access from above and below. Fiddly, due to the drive shaft is in the way for the lower two. Queue bad language.
My friend Peter (if your reading this, you know how thankful I am!) was able to operate the crane from above while I checked all bolts were from underneath. I then got out from under the car and after a lot of shaking and wiggly, including hitting the engine and bell housing with a rubber mallet to liberate it, the engine came loose.
We then jacked it up free and the one thing I had forgotten to do was disconnect the oil cooler lines to the local cooler and oil filter housing. 30 mins of swearing and various spanners later the AN connections were loose and we could pull the engine free. We then used the bell housing bolts to secure the engine to the engine stand, and thats it!
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