![[ProjectSTi]](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgqVanZg9w-c4hS30-vwmY1vqbhTqkAlpb0a2RMSq9lGDlNvjWa6PF_M3Dcb_y6Lzef4wChPlx3cJivdW2n8v3tjZ8PrUJzH4D7Ktx4Jhzz0H0hrUmEXP80ofkZt9y5xM1irMQWm787FTXxzia9UsFrNI3MwfiwgLlTpAO-55uip-USRGdOW4WYicZieO0=s174)
Now that the block was on the the engine stand, I could start to remove the sensors, like crank angle, camshaft position etc. These were pretty straightforward and were stored safely out of the way in the tool chest.
I then started stripping all extra oil and water pipes from around the heads. Once complete, I marked up the timing belt and and and made sure all the timing marks were in position. This means that once you come to remove the camshaft pulleys, they won't smash the pistons and valves together.
I started to try and slacken the camshaft bolts, but the AVCS bolts are so tight, I sheared by Torx T55 socket! I have since ordered the AVCS inlet removal tool and the exhaust cam tool. There are many jury-rigged methods of removing these bolts you will see on the internet, like wrapping the old timing belt around the crank and other such methods, however, with engineering, there is unfortunately only one way to do things....the proper way! Therefore, you got to pay the money and buy the correct tool. It also means that when its time to install the camshaft pulleys again, the torque will be correct and you not putting undue stress on other areas of the valve train and rotating assembly. Its the boring, expensive, but CORRECT way to do it. Plus, I can always use the tools again, for the cost of a couple hours garage labour, they pay for themselves in the future.
After using a scraper and hammering the sump off, you can finally get a look at the bottom end and a couple of connecting rods, but you still need to strip the heads before getting near a piston.
Before removing anything, I wanted to spend a bit of time measuring the valve lash clearance with the bucket shims in the head. This give the clearance allowed for thermal expansion once the engine is up to temperature. At least I can see what valves are in spec and which clearance need adjusted once the heads are rebuilt. This is easy enough as you remove the valve covers, then rotate the crank to certain positions shown in the manual, then check the inlet and exhaust clearance as you go, making a reference note for later.
I was surprised find that nearly 50% of the clearances were too tight! There is a special formula in the manual to help you determine which new shim you need, but for now, Ill not have to worry until the time comes to lap the valves and rebuild. Seeing as the engine had been run like this for about 9000 miles, there has been no real problem I can see yet, but I will try to restore them to factory clearance, with new titanium valves down the line.
I then started stripping all extra oil and water pipes from around the heads. Once complete, I marked up the timing belt and and and made sure all the timing marks were in position. This means that once you come to remove the camshaft pulleys, they won't smash the pistons and valves together.
I started to try and slacken the camshaft bolts, but the AVCS bolts are so tight, I sheared by Torx T55 socket! I have since ordered the AVCS inlet removal tool and the exhaust cam tool. There are many jury-rigged methods of removing these bolts you will see on the internet, like wrapping the old timing belt around the crank and other such methods, however, with engineering, there is unfortunately only one way to do things....the proper way! Therefore, you got to pay the money and buy the correct tool. It also means that when its time to install the camshaft pulleys again, the torque will be correct and you not putting undue stress on other areas of the valve train and rotating assembly. Its the boring, expensive, but CORRECT way to do it. Plus, I can always use the tools again, for the cost of a couple hours garage labour, they pay for themselves in the future.
After using a scraper and hammering the sump off, you can finally get a look at the bottom end and a couple of connecting rods, but you still need to strip the heads before getting near a piston.
Before removing anything, I wanted to spend a bit of time measuring the valve lash clearance with the bucket shims in the head. This give the clearance allowed for thermal expansion once the engine is up to temperature. At least I can see what valves are in spec and which clearance need adjusted once the heads are rebuilt. This is easy enough as you remove the valve covers, then rotate the crank to certain positions shown in the manual, then check the inlet and exhaust clearance as you go, making a reference note for later.
I was surprised find that nearly 50% of the clearances were too tight! There is a special formula in the manual to help you determine which new shim you need, but for now, Ill not have to worry until the time comes to lap the valves and rebuild. Seeing as the engine had been run like this for about 9000 miles, there has been no real problem I can see yet, but I will try to restore them to factory clearance, with new titanium valves down the line.
Comments
Post a Comment