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I managed to install the bucket shims, measure the valve clearance and got them pretty much spot on....a couple were very slightly on the higher side, which is OK as they are as close to spec clearance and not out enough to cause an issue. Instead of being 0.2mm, they were 0.25 or there about as thats the only feeler gauge that slid in.
Now that the clearances were OK, I was able to bolt on the head covers and install the cam shaft oil seals. The AVCS pipes went on next to the head and block, making sure to clean the oil filter hidden inside the AVCS banjo bolt.
I then installed the inlet manifold so that I could take the weight of the engine and lower it to the ground on some padding. The problem I found was that with the flywheel in place, you can't fully rotate the crankshaft as the flywheel catches on the engine stand bolts!! The rear camshaft covers went on first, then I had a bit of trouble bolting on the camshaft pulleys as they are difficult to line up. You have to be careful as you can also damage the cam oil seal behind it...which I did. Luckily I had one spare.
Engine pulleys went on next and torqued to spec, so that the timing belt could go on.....
Once on the deck, I was able to install the camshaft locking tool on the inlet and exhaust cams on the passenger side bank. This is a great tool that lets you lock the shafts in place so you can feed the belt around the engine and pulleys.
I fed the belt around the drivers side cams, then around the pulleys and used the locking tool to slacken each pulley in turn to allow me to rotate them and feed the belt into position. Then lock the cams and install the final idler pulley.
As Im now busy with work, I decided to leave the tensioner pin in place and not put the belt under full tension yet. Plus, an AVCS camshaft bolt sheared so luckily I was able to remove it from the cam with a screw driver. Good time to quit for now I think!
Once the belt is in place, give it two rotations to make sure all the timing marks still line up...after that, your good to go, no expensive smashing noises were heard!
Now that the clearances were OK, I was able to bolt on the head covers and install the cam shaft oil seals. The AVCS pipes went on next to the head and block, making sure to clean the oil filter hidden inside the AVCS banjo bolt.
I then installed the inlet manifold so that I could take the weight of the engine and lower it to the ground on some padding. The problem I found was that with the flywheel in place, you can't fully rotate the crankshaft as the flywheel catches on the engine stand bolts!! The rear camshaft covers went on first, then I had a bit of trouble bolting on the camshaft pulleys as they are difficult to line up. You have to be careful as you can also damage the cam oil seal behind it...which I did. Luckily I had one spare.
Engine pulleys went on next and torqued to spec, so that the timing belt could go on.....
Once on the deck, I was able to install the camshaft locking tool on the inlet and exhaust cams on the passenger side bank. This is a great tool that lets you lock the shafts in place so you can feed the belt around the engine and pulleys.
I fed the belt around the drivers side cams, then around the pulleys and used the locking tool to slacken each pulley in turn to allow me to rotate them and feed the belt into position. Then lock the cams and install the final idler pulley.
As Im now busy with work, I decided to leave the tensioner pin in place and not put the belt under full tension yet. Plus, an AVCS camshaft bolt sheared so luckily I was able to remove it from the cam with a screw driver. Good time to quit for now I think!
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