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Well the car passed the MOT first time!
Managed to rack up 400 miles with help from the guys at NI Subaru run, after a great road trip. Initial run in teething problems included several small coolant leaks (one on the way to the MOT!) and a lot of nervous driving.
The day of the test, I had a lower radiator hose leak, so the car was promptly jacked up on the side of the motorway and the issue was fixed. As it was not insured until the test day, there was no time to run in at all. I managed to fill and burp as much coolant as possible, but again, it did start to overheat on test day. I quickly burped the system on the road side and added more coolant and finally the system was back to normal.
I have noticed that this engine does run 5 - 10 deg.C warmer than the last engine. I could be due to being slightly higher compression ratio than the last engine too. However all the gauges seemed normal and I am trying to treat all the parameters as new and learn from them, but it is hard not to draw comparisons against the old engine.
The high volume oil pump certainly made a difference too. The last engine always had 1.5 Bar - 2 BAR Oil pressure at idle, however I always thought the sensor was failing on the gauge, but after fitting the new pump on the new engine, I have a solid 4 bar at idle. IT could have been an indication that the last last pump was on its way out. This would also seem to be backed up by the "bluing" high temperature of the last bearings.
I did have one annoying water leak from a weeping water crossover pipe at cylinder 3. This involved the inlet manifold coming off AGAIN. I replaced both O Rings, all 4 bolts and torqued to spec. I also applied some RTV grey sealant to the O rings just for good measure.
The oil filter was removed and the oil did contain a light sheen of metallic particles, with some on the magnetic sump plug. No bearing chunks or anything, just a small, light fuzz. I swapped the running in oil for Shell Helix and got the car back on the road.
Whilst I was waiting for the water O Rings to arrive, I decided to fit the de-cat pipe and seeing as the exhaust was off, I welded on the sensor bung to the de-cat, so that I could fit the Bosch wideband sensor. As the sensor was in the de-cat, it should give far more accurate readings than if it was after a standard catalytic converter.
I put the de-cat in position, then marked where I wanted the bung, then removed again and drilled a hole in the pipe for the sensor, then welded on the bung. Im slowly getting the hang of my MIG welder, and after a few attempts, I got the wire feed and gas flow just right to give a nice weld. Pity I hadn't found the settings last time I fabricated the De-cat, as its pretty shocking to look at!!
The sensor was fitted, and the sensor lead was run up and over he gearbox to the passenger firewall, then run into the footwell near the ecu.
I then used a 12volt power supply to run from the gear stick up to the instrument panel where the gauge is located. The sensor cable was also run behind the dash and up to the gauge. The 12v supply is switched, so that once the ignition is turned off, the power is cut too.....that way you can't leave the power on to the gauge or sensor.
Now all I have to do is figure out the pinouts for the ecu and wire the 5 volt out from the gauge and input that signal into the ecu. That way I can log the AFR readings directly on the laptop and catalog it together with all the ecu readings!
Managed to rack up 400 miles with help from the guys at NI Subaru run, after a great road trip. Initial run in teething problems included several small coolant leaks (one on the way to the MOT!) and a lot of nervous driving.
The day of the test, I had a lower radiator hose leak, so the car was promptly jacked up on the side of the motorway and the issue was fixed. As it was not insured until the test day, there was no time to run in at all. I managed to fill and burp as much coolant as possible, but again, it did start to overheat on test day. I quickly burped the system on the road side and added more coolant and finally the system was back to normal.
The high volume oil pump certainly made a difference too. The last engine always had 1.5 Bar - 2 BAR Oil pressure at idle, however I always thought the sensor was failing on the gauge, but after fitting the new pump on the new engine, I have a solid 4 bar at idle. IT could have been an indication that the last last pump was on its way out. This would also seem to be backed up by the "bluing" high temperature of the last bearings.
I did have one annoying water leak from a weeping water crossover pipe at cylinder 3. This involved the inlet manifold coming off AGAIN. I replaced both O Rings, all 4 bolts and torqued to spec. I also applied some RTV grey sealant to the O rings just for good measure.
The oil filter was removed and the oil did contain a light sheen of metallic particles, with some on the magnetic sump plug. No bearing chunks or anything, just a small, light fuzz. I swapped the running in oil for Shell Helix and got the car back on the road.
Whilst I was waiting for the water O Rings to arrive, I decided to fit the de-cat pipe and seeing as the exhaust was off, I welded on the sensor bung to the de-cat, so that I could fit the Bosch wideband sensor. As the sensor was in the de-cat, it should give far more accurate readings than if it was after a standard catalytic converter.
I put the de-cat in position, then marked where I wanted the bung, then removed again and drilled a hole in the pipe for the sensor, then welded on the bung. Im slowly getting the hang of my MIG welder, and after a few attempts, I got the wire feed and gas flow just right to give a nice weld. Pity I hadn't found the settings last time I fabricated the De-cat, as its pretty shocking to look at!!
I then used a 12volt power supply to run from the gear stick up to the instrument panel where the gauge is located. The sensor cable was also run behind the dash and up to the gauge. The 12v supply is switched, so that once the ignition is turned off, the power is cut too.....that way you can't leave the power on to the gauge or sensor.
Now all I have to do is figure out the pinouts for the ecu and wire the 5 volt out from the gauge and input that signal into the ecu. That way I can log the AFR readings directly on the laptop and catalog it together with all the ecu readings!
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