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Well after the last post about the timing belt installation, there has been a 7 week gap due to work commitments.
Thankfully, I managed to grab the spanners and get back to it today. Overall, once the time belt was complete, the belt covers went on, then the crankshaft pulley. Once the front of the engine was complete, I could then install the exhaust headers and oil sandwich plate, as well as the engine mounts.
It all went quite well, then I could focus on the inlet manifold, which took a lot more time! I installed the fuel injectors and O Rings onto the rails, with a bit of grease. Then torqued down the rails to the tumbler valves. I could then take my time at installing the manifold as the wiring loom has to go on first. All sensors, like crankshaft sensor and camshaft position sensors, as well as the injectors harness and all other wires were fed around the manifold. I could then drop it into place with new gaskets. It took a couple of practice runs as I couldn't remember the exact method, since removing it months ago.
I had a massive issue with the crankshaft seal as well. After checking some old pictures of the engine as I removed it, I realised that I had installed the seal too deeply into the casing. It therefore had to be destroyed to come out. After ordering a new one, I tried again and with the lube oil, it did the same thing again and pressed fully into the casing and therefore had to come out. Its a difficult seal to get right without the special tool. I went to my local dealer, Eastwoods, and Conor the guy in the parts department was so helpful he even lent me the official workshop tool, on the promise I returned it the next day. I duly did, with a 6-pack for his trouble. Not too many decent folk like that left these days!!
Anyway, with everything bolted up, including the clutch pressure plate, I enlisted my best man, James and his brother Jonathan to help me lift the engine and drop it into the bay. I took a LOT of wiggling and lifting up and down on the crane, followed by some swearing, but it went in! The bell-housing bolts were used to pull the engine towards the gearbox. We had some trouble with the clutch release fork as it slipped out of place during fitting, but all good in the end. Its a real trial by error, dropping the crane height slowly until you get the two locator pins on the bottom of the block to slide into the bell housing. You then actually need to jack up the gearbox from below and lower the engine. Once that gets you close enough you can line up the clutch and gearbox shaft/release bearing. Then use the bell housing bolts to draw the gearbox and engine together. Its incredibly tight for space and you have to use multiple ratchets/socket combinations to tighten the bolts as the lower ones are hidden behind the driveshafts......queue the swearing.....
Thankfully, I managed to grab the spanners and get back to it today. Overall, once the time belt was complete, the belt covers went on, then the crankshaft pulley. Once the front of the engine was complete, I could then install the exhaust headers and oil sandwich plate, as well as the engine mounts.
It all went quite well, then I could focus on the inlet manifold, which took a lot more time! I installed the fuel injectors and O Rings onto the rails, with a bit of grease. Then torqued down the rails to the tumbler valves. I could then take my time at installing the manifold as the wiring loom has to go on first. All sensors, like crankshaft sensor and camshaft position sensors, as well as the injectors harness and all other wires were fed around the manifold. I could then drop it into place with new gaskets. It took a couple of practice runs as I couldn't remember the exact method, since removing it months ago.
I had a massive issue with the crankshaft seal as well. After checking some old pictures of the engine as I removed it, I realised that I had installed the seal too deeply into the casing. It therefore had to be destroyed to come out. After ordering a new one, I tried again and with the lube oil, it did the same thing again and pressed fully into the casing and therefore had to come out. Its a difficult seal to get right without the special tool. I went to my local dealer, Eastwoods, and Conor the guy in the parts department was so helpful he even lent me the official workshop tool, on the promise I returned it the next day. I duly did, with a 6-pack for his trouble. Not too many decent folk like that left these days!!
Anyway, with everything bolted up, including the clutch pressure plate, I enlisted my best man, James and his brother Jonathan to help me lift the engine and drop it into the bay. I took a LOT of wiggling and lifting up and down on the crane, followed by some swearing, but it went in! The bell-housing bolts were used to pull the engine towards the gearbox. We had some trouble with the clutch release fork as it slipped out of place during fitting, but all good in the end. Its a real trial by error, dropping the crane height slowly until you get the two locator pins on the bottom of the block to slide into the bell housing. You then actually need to jack up the gearbox from below and lower the engine. Once that gets you close enough you can line up the clutch and gearbox shaft/release bearing. Then use the bell housing bolts to draw the gearbox and engine together. Its incredibly tight for space and you have to use multiple ratchets/socket combinations to tighten the bolts as the lower ones are hidden behind the driveshafts......queue the swearing.....
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